Swim Equipment
Required Equipment:
Swimsuit: as long as it stays on when you push off the wall, you’re good!
Goggles: any goggles that stay on when you push off the wall are fine, but the most popular brands among swimmers is the Speedo Vanquisher 2.0 or Swedish goggles.
Recommended Equpment:
Swim cap: latex caps are cheaper and generally stay on better, but silicone caps are generally more comfortable for most people.
Wetsuit**: some of our races are very cold and require a wetsuit. It is best to have at least a long sleeve wetsuit. UCD Tri currently has an Xterra discount, and Xterra has a perpetual sale on all of their wetsuits which makes them good if you aren’t sure exactly what you’re looking for.
Other Equipment:
Fins, paddles, pull buoy: these can be used in various ways to improve swim technique but are not necessary and are provided by Coach John at swim practices.
** We have loaners that team members can borrow.
Bike Equipment
Required Equipment:
Helmets: this is the most important piece of bike equipment. The helmet must be CPSC certified, but there is no perfect way to know how good a helmet will be in a crash. New South Wales and Virgina Tech are generally recognized as having the most complete helmet safety testing systems. As a part of the UCD Triathlon team, you are likely investing tens of thousands of dollars into your brain as you pursue your degree, so we encourage you to not cut corners on a helmet. The Specialized Align II is the most popular helmet on our team and can be purchased for $65 at the time of writing.
Bike**: this is the most expensive piece of triathlon equipment. High quality new bikes can typically be found for around $2,000, but it is generally better to buy used from Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace where high quality bikes can be found for around $500-1000. Triathlon/time trial specific bikes are faster in a straight line, but these are harder to handle and not great for riding with a team. Everyone should start out with regular road bike.
Fit is the most important thing about a bike and you should check the size guide of the respective brand before buying. The same size can fit different ways for different much like with running shoes.
The groupset (see table below) is the shifters, derailleurs, gears, and other components that allow you to pedal. This is the next most important part of a bike and determines how easy and smooth shifting will be. Shimano is the most common groupset and sets the standard for everything, but Sram is a large competitor. The only difference between most S-tier and B-tier groupsets is a small amount of weight and it is almost never worth it to pay extra for an S- or A-tier groupset if a cheaper option for B-tier is available. Newer Shimano C- and D-tier groupsets are nearly indistinguishable from Shimano 105, but they have fewer gears than B- through S-tier groupsets (rarely an issue). Di2 and AXS is Shimano and Sram’s respective designations for electronic groupsets, which is marginally better but typically not worth paying extra for. B-tier groupsets are ideal for most people.
Frame material is less important. Carbon frames are often marginally lighter and more aerodynamic, while aluminum frames are more damage resistant and cheaper. Carbon is the preferred material for most people but usually not worth paying extra for.
Recommended Equipment:
Lights: while they do not prevent accidents, some drivers may have poor vision, be distracted, or are otherwise not driving carefully. A bike with a flashing light is a lot more visible than a bike without one, even during the day. Lights can be found on Amazon or in bike stores for ~$15 and rarely need to be replaces. Remember to keep them charged!
Pedals, cleats, and shoes: the two main types are road and mountain bike (MTB) pedals. Road pedals provide a wider platform to push on and are slightly more comfortable, while MTB pedals are more versatile and easier to walk in. Road pedals and cleats can be distinguished by the 3-bolt hole design and MTB cleats have a 2-bolt hole design. Be sure that your shoes have the correct number of holes in the bottom; many shoes have both a 2- and 3-hole design that allows you to use both types of pedals with the same shoe.
Aero bars**: these can make it more comfortable to hold a more aero position and typically increases speeds by ~1 mph
** We have loaners that team members can borrow
Run Equipment
Required Equipment:
Shoes: these are highly personal and we recommend going to a shoe store to try on several different pairs to see which ones feel best. “Supershoes” with carbon plates are generally very expensive, have a short lifespan, and provide only marginal gains. These are not recommended for most people. Good running shoes are typically around $150.
Other Equpment:
Speed laces: these can make it easier to put shoes on during transition.
Accessories
GPS Watch: the Garmin Forerunner 255 and 265 are favorites among UCD Tri members, but these can be expensive and are far from necessary (phone apps can perform some of the basic functions). You should make sure that your watch can support run, bike, open water swim, and triathlon/multisport, ideally.
Heart rate chest strap: these can be used to measure your body’s strain more accurately than wrist-based heart rate monitors built into smartwatches, which can be useful for gaining a better understanding of how your body is performing and recovering. These are much cheaper than power meters and are arguably better for optimized training.
Power meter: cycling power meters measure your power output at any given moment and which is useful for pacing and training at specific intensities. This is more expensive that heart rate but can provide more detailed insights into pacing and short, anaerobic efforts that are not captured well by heart rate. Running power meters do not actually measure power and are more of a rough estimation of grade adjusted pace, but they can be used in a similar manner to cycling power meters. Many watches have running power meter algorithms built in.